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2016 Trip

Falmouth history #1: packet ships

3/3/2016

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Back in the 1600-1800s, packet ships ruled the mail, carrying packets to and from Britain’s far-flung embassies, colonies, and outposts. This was the era when Britain ruled most of the world (“The sun never sets on the British Empire”), so there were lots of ships and tons of packets. It was how they communicated back then: Sailing the ocean blue. Then when the mail reached the shore it was harried along by stage coach. You’ve probably seen the pictures: wild-looking driver holding on for dear life while cracking his whip, wheels hitting ruts, passengers being thrown all around, that kind of thing.

In the late 1600s, Falmouth was appointed the Royal Mail packet station--the deep harbor and strategic location making it the perfect shipping port. With the Royal Mail appointment, Falmouth became the second biggest information hub in the British Empire, second only to London in knowing the headlines. Sort of like the CNN of the 1600s.
Picture
This is the HMP Countess of Chicester, a packet ship built in Falmouth in 1810. Actually, it’s a painting of the Countess by N. Cammillieri, which you can read about here. 

Sadly but predictably, new technology ended the packet era when steamships—faster and less prone to mishaps on the water—took over. They in turn would be replaced by rail, steam, email, and who-knows-maybe-some-day, teleporting. The progress thing.
Picture
The kind Royal Mail just released a stamp honoring the mighty packet ship. It’s part of a series called Royal Mail Heritage Transport. See the whole series here.

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Will there be a packet ship in Falmouth? It'd be cool to tour one.
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Saturday 9/21

Land at Heathrow, train to paddington, train to Exeter, train to barnstaple, walk to The Old Vicarage—where we are staying until Thursday.
Have to remember how to read these boards.
Our room.
Love the bath!
First, tea in the garden.
After our tea we walk to the bus station to pick up bus schedules. Hop the 21 to Fremington, which is where we left off last time.
On the path.
Ha! Bob wants “he was a character” on his tombstone.
Fairly uninteresting walk, mostly along marshes.
Security idea for PP@L
We’re on an old railroad line, cute tunnels and all. This looks like a tunnel from the Thomas videos.
Our first pub. This is Instow.
My new favorite drink. It’s cucumber and elderberry and so good I have two. Which means we are finished for the day! We’ll complete this stretch of the walk tomorrow.
We order fish& chips takeaway rather than eating it in the pub because (a) it’s about half the price, and (b) fish & chips taste best outside! Check out the newspaper wrapping!
Not so healthy but it’s the first night and we’re on the coast where the fish is fresh, so.

Sunday, 9/22 Morning

Ate a marvelous breakfast, then walked straight out of Barnstaple to pick up the path heading northwest.
We fill out a little form the night before, choosing our breakfast time and meal items. Plus, there’s a sideboard of granolas, yogurt, fruit, etc.
View from our table.
Walking through Barnstable before hike.
The path. Heading first to Braunton.
The path is flat and fairly unremarkable. Sky is threatening.
We reach Braunton, almost pass right by this, then decide to stop for a short break.
Lovely inside, nicest people.

Sunday, 9/22 Afternoon

We walk Braunton to Saunton, intending to catch bus at Saunton, except I read Saturday’s bus schedule instead of Sunday’s because it’s so easy to do that and we soon find out there is no Sunday bus service in Saunton.
This Is looking back to Braunton. Path leads along this estuary. I think it’s an estuary.
Blackberry bushes are everywhere!
We’re right next to military training grounds.
Lunch break. Sandwiches. Forgot to pack dessert.
Ha! We see this sign as we close the gate after walking across the field.
It’s here that we realize that no bus will be coming. Luckily there’s a golf course right next to the path and we bum a ride to Braunton, which we know for sure has Sunday buses.

Saturday, 9/22 Evening

Our main goal on Sunday every time we come to England is it to make it to a Sunday Roast Dinner. Usually we miss it. Today though we are lucky: we find a good place in Braunton and end the walk on a full-belly note. Total miles today: 11.5.
Roast beef, potato, assorted fresh veggies, gravy, and Yorkshire pudding. Yum.
Waiting in the rain for the bus back to Barnstaple.
The Vicarage at last! We are both exhausted.
This waits for us every afternoon. That’s fresh cream on top.
Washed our clothes though not very thoroughly.
Choose breakfast and go to bed!
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