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Hike #2: Hell's Mouth to Portreath
4.3 miles

This hike, right here, our second of a hundred or so more to come, is the where we begin our crazy stupid habit of skipping from section to section as if we had not a strategy in mind, leaving gaps of all sizes between paths we'd finished and those still left to do. There is truly no sensible explanation except that sometimes bus routes and timetables dictated where and when we walked. Mostly though, sadly, it was just whim.
Because of the landslide that happened right here, at the beginning of this spectacular hike, we will always remember this section of the path. Not that we were there on the day of the actual landslide you understand, but we were there just one year after—a blip in time geologically—so we feel entitled to be a part of it all. Special, don't you know. Here's what happened:​

​Monday, 9/19/11: Hiker reports a large crack on the coastal path. Later that day, Cornwall Council diverts the path. 

Tuesday, 9/20/12: This is where we come in!
Only one year later! We walk right by the same spot and take a picture. 

Thursday, 9/22/11: Cornwall Council completes more surveys; notes that large tension cracks are opening up.

Friday, 9/24/11: Throughout day hikers report material falling from cliff. At about 4:50 p.m., Cornwall Council engineers Richard Hocking and Brian O'Connell happen to be onsite with a camera. This is what they filmed:
According to Environment Agency spokesman Paul Gainey, "Coastal rock falls like this are caused by a combination of factors. It's wave and wind action: the waves erode the foot of the cliff and undermine it. Wind buffets the cliff and erodes it away.” Now we know. Who says science is hard?
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And here is Bob standing right there where all the excitement went down. Helpfully, there's a South West Coast Path website with a page that lists known path diversions, tricky spots, and maintenance being done. Guess we should be checking this in the future.
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Whoa. 
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The climbs along this section of the coast path are the don't-look-up-just-watch-your-feet-one-foot-in-front-of-the-other-surely-this-will-end-please-God kind, and the scrambles down make you sharply aware of just how many individual components make up a knee, and that each part hurts and complains in its own special way. 
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Those paths that look so innocently like shortcuts? They're not. This photo is looking back, bent over catching our breath after painfully barreling down that shortcut and then slogging our way up the steps from hell. We'll be bent over here for awhile. Go on without us. 
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But the views make it all worthwhile. Usually. Many are the times we just want the path to end already.
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Finally, we see Portreath. And not a moment too soon as we're both a bit grumpy after getting into one of those God-knows-what-we're-fighting-about marital arguments that hit the best of us from time to time. We're actually not talking to each other at this point. That's how mature we are. 
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I find these fellas a bit disconcerting. I've not heard of a wild pony attacking a human, but they are watching us pretty closely, probably guarding that one on the ground who is...taking a snooze? Giving birth? Dead? We don't stay around to investigate. 

Further reading informs us that the ponies aren't there just for fun, or to give birth, or to die. They play an important role in managing the heathland habitats because their grazing helps keep the more vigorous plants in check and creates a balanced mix of taller bushes, bare ground, and close cropped areas. Who knew? That circle of life stuff is everywhere.
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We flag the next bus to St Ives, where we slosh down a few drinks and some seriously unhealthy portions of fish & chips. We're talking again by the end of the meal.
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Saturday 9/21

Land at Heathrow, train to paddington, train to Exeter, train to barnstaple, walk to The Old Vicarage—where we are staying until Thursday.
Have to remember how to read these boards.
Our room.
Love the bath!
First, tea in the garden.
After our tea we walk to the bus station to pick up bus schedules. Hop the 21 to Fremington, which is where we left off last time.
On the path.
Ha! Bob wants “he was a character” on his tombstone.
Fairly uninteresting walk, mostly along marshes.
Security idea for PP@L
We’re on an old railroad line, cute tunnels and all. This looks like a tunnel from the Thomas videos.
Our first pub. This is Instow.
My new favorite drink. It’s cucumber and elderberry and so good I have two. Which means we are finished for the day! We’ll complete this stretch of the walk tomorrow.
We order fish& chips takeaway rather than eating it in the pub because (a) it’s about half the price, and (b) fish & chips taste best outside! Check out the newspaper wrapping!
Not so healthy but it’s the first night and we’re on the coast where the fish is fresh, so.

Sunday, 9/22 Morning

Ate a marvelous breakfast, then walked straight out of Barnstaple to pick up the path heading northwest.
We fill out a little form the night before, choosing our breakfast time and meal items. Plus, there’s a sideboard of granolas, yogurt, fruit, etc.
View from our table.
Walking through Barnstable before hike.
The path. Heading first to Braunton.
The path is flat and fairly unremarkable. Sky is threatening.
We reach Braunton, almost pass right by this, then decide to stop for a short break.
Lovely inside, nicest people.

Sunday, 9/22 Afternoon

We walk Braunton to Saunton, intending to catch bus at Saunton, except I read Saturday’s bus schedule instead of Sunday’s because it’s so easy to do that and we soon find out there is no Sunday bus service in Saunton.
This Is looking back to Braunton. Path leads along this estuary. I think it’s an estuary.
Blackberry bushes are everywhere!
We’re right next to military training grounds.
Lunch break. Sandwiches. Forgot to pack dessert.
Ha! We see this sign as we close the gate after walking across the field.
It’s here that we realize that no bus will be coming. Luckily there’s a golf course right next to the path and we bum a ride to Braunton, which we know for sure has Sunday buses.

Saturday, 9/22 Evening

Our main goal on Sunday every time we come to England is it to make it to a Sunday Roast Dinner. Usually we miss it. Today though we are lucky: we find a good place in Braunton and end the walk on a full-belly note. Total miles today: 11.5.
Roast beef, potato, assorted fresh veggies, gravy, and Yorkshire pudding. Yum.
Waiting in the rain for the bus back to Barnstaple.
The Vicarage at last! We are both exhausted.
This waits for us every afternoon. That’s fresh cream on top.
Washed our clothes though not very thoroughly.
Choose breakfast and go to bed!
  • 2019 Trip Blog
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