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  • 2019 Trip Blog
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Hike #11: Ilfracombe to Lee to Morthoe

Only by enlarging this map can you see the climbs and dips and back and forths of this path. I encourage you to do this because it'd be nice knowing that someone somewhere recognizes what a truly looong and arduous walk this is.
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​Right now it is 2pm and we are sitting in this pub in Lee, having walked three miles from Ilfracrombe. We are tired and would love to quit but as there are no more buses from Lee today, we will have to walk on to Mortehoe. This is the kind of stuff that happens when you don't bother with bus schedules. 
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The Grampus Inn is very old. Here's what their website says: "The Grampus is set in the heart of one Britain's most picturesque villages. Parts of the building date back to the 14th Century, and until the 1970s, this was a working farm. Now a Free House, with a tea-room that opens between Easter and October, it is a favourite with residents and holiday makers alike. Families are catered for, and walkers ​and dogs are always welcome."
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It's the only place to get a bite or a drink. Their website also says: "Although Lee is a small village, there is enthusiastic support for pub games. There are thriving skittles, darts and pool leagues, as well as a variety of games available to visitors including chess, backgammon, scrabble, dominoes, cards, and the opportunity to play darts, pool or table-tennis. The Grampus also provides other forms of entertainment, such as live music, quiz nights, discussion groups and craft evenings. The pub is a vital part of village festivities throughout the year including Christmas, New Year, and
​Twelfth Night." 
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​The church is old and quiet and somber.
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With handmade kneelers!
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​Onward to  Mortehoe. Lots and lots of ups and downs.
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​We came from way over there...
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..and are heading way over there, as far as you can see the trail. We're hoping it ends there.
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You never quite know what to expect on a hill like this. Will the path go down? Will the ​town be below? Will there be an escalator?
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It's a lighthouse.
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And then more long path leading God knows where. Around here somewhere is a little side path that takes us into the town, and to a cafe, and to our bus stop, and to our room, and so to bed.
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​Finally! Mortehoe!
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Lovely houses and cute little streets and cream tea because we are too early for dinner but as the last bus comes at 5:20 and we're famished, we eat what we can.
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I would love more time to explore this teeny tiny village. Actually, we will have to come back as we need to walk the other direction. Cool.
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Saturday 9/21

Land at Heathrow, train to paddington, train to Exeter, train to barnstaple, walk to The Old Vicarage—where we are staying until Thursday.
Have to remember how to read these boards.
Our room.
Love the bath!
First, tea in the garden.
After our tea we walk to the bus station to pick up bus schedules. Hop the 21 to Fremington, which is where we left off last time.
On the path.
Ha! Bob wants “he was a character” on his tombstone.
Fairly uninteresting walk, mostly along marshes.
Security idea for PP@L
We’re on an old railroad line, cute tunnels and all. This looks like a tunnel from the Thomas videos.
Our first pub. This is Instow.
My new favorite drink. It’s cucumber and elderberry and so good I have two. Which means we are finished for the day! We’ll complete this stretch of the walk tomorrow.
We order fish& chips takeaway rather than eating it in the pub because (a) it’s about half the price, and (b) fish & chips taste best outside! Check out the newspaper wrapping!
Not so healthy but it’s the first night and we’re on the coast where the fish is fresh, so.

Sunday, 9/22 Morning

Ate a marvelous breakfast, then walked straight out of Barnstaple to pick up the path heading northwest.
We fill out a little form the night before, choosing our breakfast time and meal items. Plus, there’s a sideboard of granolas, yogurt, fruit, etc.
View from our table.
Walking through Barnstable before hike.
The path. Heading first to Braunton.
The path is flat and fairly unremarkable. Sky is threatening.
We reach Braunton, almost pass right by this, then decide to stop for a short break.
Lovely inside, nicest people.

Sunday, 9/22 Afternoon

We walk Braunton to Saunton, intending to catch bus at Saunton, except I read Saturday’s bus schedule instead of Sunday’s because it’s so easy to do that and we soon find out there is no Sunday bus service in Saunton.
This Is looking back to Braunton. Path leads along this estuary. I think it’s an estuary.
Blackberry bushes are everywhere!
We’re right next to military training grounds.
Lunch break. Sandwiches. Forgot to pack dessert.
Ha! We see this sign as we close the gate after walking across the field.
It’s here that we realize that no bus will be coming. Luckily there’s a golf course right next to the path and we bum a ride to Braunton, which we know for sure has Sunday buses.

Saturday, 9/22 Evening

Our main goal on Sunday every time we come to England is it to make it to a Sunday Roast Dinner. Usually we miss it. Today though we are lucky: we find a good place in Braunton and end the walk on a full-belly note. Total miles today: 11.5.
Roast beef, potato, assorted fresh veggies, gravy, and Yorkshire pudding. Yum.
Waiting in the rain for the bus back to Barnstaple.
The Vicarage at last! We are both exhausted.
This waits for us every afternoon. That’s fresh cream on top.
Washed our clothes though not very thoroughly.
Choose breakfast and go to bed!
  • 2019 Trip Blog
  • Our Hikes
  • Town