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What is the South West Coast Path?

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The South West Coast Path (SWCP) goes from Minehead to Poole. It goes from Poole to Minehead as well of course, but most guidebooks have you walking counter-clockwise. No idea why. It's hugely confusing trying to follow the guidebook backward. Now we know.

The 640-mile coast path carves around a particularly rugged section of the UK—stone buildings and hardy people that have battled storms and rough living for centuries—and offers everything: history, geology, wildlife, art, fantastic weather and wild storms, pubs and villages, tea and scones, and some of the most spectacular scenery ever.

Tons of people walk the whole thing in one fell swoop; tons more do bits and pieces here and there. Our original plan was to walk the whole path, mile by mile, over a five-year period. As of our September 2016 trip—our fourth year—we've hiked just under 400 miles, meaning the aforementioned goal clearly won't be happening. So our new plan is to just finish. Goals and plans and objectives can be so overrated.

We had a few decisions to make in planning this really long walk. Mostly: what to do about luggage? As the paths are linear, not circular, we will end up away from our hotel. Eventually, we'll be far, far away. The thought passes through my mind—oh so fleetingly—that we would simply backpack our stuff around. Hahaha.

In the end, we decide on the homebase plan: choose one town to stay in for each week of our two-week stay—making sure the town has good bus service and proximity to food and drink, preferably a Marks & Spencer—and use buses to get back and forth. Thanks for the idea, mom!

The hikes. So far.

ST IVES TO ZENNOR
HELL'S MOUTH TO PORTREATH
PENZANCE TO MARAZION
Land's End to Sennen
Padstow to Trevone
Newquay to Holywell
barnstable to fremington quay
Bideford to Appledore
bucks mill to clovelly
Lynton to Lee
Hartland Quay
Ilfracombe to Lee to Morthoe
Westward Ho! to Appledore
Penzance to Lamorna
Land's End to Porthcurno
Lamorna to Porthcurno
St Ives to Lelant
Zennor to Pendeen Watch
Porthallow to Coverack
First Hike: St Ives to Zennor

Saturday 9/21

Land at Heathrow, train to paddington, train to Exeter, train to barnstaple, walk to The Old Vicarage—where we are staying until Thursday.
Have to remember how to read these boards.
Our room.
Love the bath!
First, tea in the garden.
After our tea we walk to the bus station to pick up bus schedules. Hop the 21 to Fremington, which is where we left off last time.
On the path.
Ha! Bob wants “he was a character” on his tombstone.
Fairly uninteresting walk, mostly along marshes.
Security idea for PP@L
We’re on an old railroad line, cute tunnels and all. This looks like a tunnel from the Thomas videos.
Our first pub. This is Instow.
My new favorite drink. It’s cucumber and elderberry and so good I have two. Which means we are finished for the day! We’ll complete this stretch of the walk tomorrow.
We order fish& chips takeaway rather than eating it in the pub because (a) it’s about half the price, and (b) fish & chips taste best outside! Check out the newspaper wrapping!
Not so healthy but it’s the first night and we’re on the coast where the fish is fresh, so.

Sunday, 9/22 Morning

Ate a marvelous breakfast, then walked straight out of Barnstaple to pick up the path heading northwest.
We fill out a little form the night before, choosing our breakfast time and meal items. Plus, there’s a sideboard of granolas, yogurt, fruit, etc.
View from our table.
Walking through Barnstable before hike.
The path. Heading first to Braunton.
The path is flat and fairly unremarkable. Sky is threatening.
We reach Braunton, almost pass right by this, then decide to stop for a short break.
Lovely inside, nicest people.

Sunday, 9/22 Afternoon

We walk Braunton to Saunton, intending to catch bus at Saunton, except I read Saturday’s bus schedule instead of Sunday’s because it’s so easy to do that and we soon find out there is no Sunday bus service in Saunton.
This Is looking back to Braunton. Path leads along this estuary. I think it’s an estuary.
Blackberry bushes are everywhere!
We’re right next to military training grounds.
Lunch break. Sandwiches. Forgot to pack dessert.
Ha! We see this sign as we close the gate after walking across the field.
It’s here that we realize that no bus will be coming. Luckily there’s a golf course right next to the path and we bum a ride to Braunton, which we know for sure has Sunday buses.

Saturday, 9/22 Evening

Our main goal on Sunday every time we come to England is it to make it to a Sunday Roast Dinner. Usually we miss it. Today though we are lucky: we find a good place in Braunton and end the walk on a full-belly note. Total miles today: 11.5.
Roast beef, potato, assorted fresh veggies, gravy, and Yorkshire pudding. Yum.
Waiting in the rain for the bus back to Barnstaple.
The Vicarage at last! We are both exhausted.
This waits for us every afternoon. That’s fresh cream on top.
Washed our clothes though not very thoroughly.
Choose breakfast and go to bed!
  • 2019 Trip Blog
  • Our Hikes
  • Town