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We've come to Penzance to finish up a gap from Zennor Head to Sennon Cove. Today we walk the part that has no bus service on Sunday--Zennor to Pendeen Watch. We know big rain is coming and we know it's rated "strenuous" in the books, so we expect some difficulties. Hover over photo to see caption.
Wet. Cold. Slow.
The cows leave us alone. At first.
Then one gets a bit aggressive and I hop the wall.
Then I can't find a way over that doesn't involve a huge pile of wet cow crap.
Eventually, I just yell at them--something like EEYAA! EEYAA! which I think is what cowhands yell. I am so not in the mood.
Finally, we see the promise land: its the lighthouse just over there on the far right! We are going to make it; we're not going to die in the dark on the coast path among the cows after all.
But then we discover there's a huge walk down and back up. Fooking coastal path always does this, especially in the rain, when you're mentally and physically already checked out.
The path goes down forever. Now we're a bit worried that it's getting dark, and that we've missed the last bus.
And then we go back up. But when the trail starts heading back down and around, we decide we're finished. Enough. It's raining too hard to get photos but picture this: crossing a huge cow pasture skirting between cows and animal-sized cow patties; climbing a fence into a second field; then a third and fourth. The last one has a bull and I'm terrified. Finally we find a road with not a sign of life anywhere. Eventually we flag down a car and get a looong lift to the bus stop, where we've missed the bus by 5 minutes. Luckily a kind man takes pity and offers us a ride to Penzance. We arrive at our AirBnB sopping wet from head to toe, and undress in the shed. The coast path has beaten us.
Sunday morning it's a brand new day. We take a suitcase of clothes to the laundromat.
Free advertising for phil's company.

Saturday 9/21

Land at Heathrow, train to paddington, train to Exeter, train to barnstaple, walk to The Old Vicarage—where we are staying until Thursday.
Have to remember how to read these boards.
Our room.
Love the bath!
First, tea in the garden.
After our tea we walk to the bus station to pick up bus schedules. Hop the 21 to Fremington, which is where we left off last time.
On the path.
Ha! Bob wants “he was a character” on his tombstone.
Fairly uninteresting walk, mostly along marshes.
Security idea for PP@L
We’re on an old railroad line, cute tunnels and all. This looks like a tunnel from the Thomas videos.
Our first pub. This is Instow.
My new favorite drink. It’s cucumber and elderberry and so good I have two. Which means we are finished for the day! We’ll complete this stretch of the walk tomorrow.
We order fish& chips takeaway rather than eating it in the pub because (a) it’s about half the price, and (b) fish & chips taste best outside! Check out the newspaper wrapping!
Not so healthy but it’s the first night and we’re on the coast where the fish is fresh, so.

Sunday, 9/22 Morning

Ate a marvelous breakfast, then walked straight out of Barnstaple to pick up the path heading northwest.
We fill out a little form the night before, choosing our breakfast time and meal items. Plus, there’s a sideboard of granolas, yogurt, fruit, etc.
View from our table.
Walking through Barnstable before hike.
The path. Heading first to Braunton.
The path is flat and fairly unremarkable. Sky is threatening.
We reach Braunton, almost pass right by this, then decide to stop for a short break.
Lovely inside, nicest people.

Sunday, 9/22 Afternoon

We walk Braunton to Saunton, intending to catch bus at Saunton, except I read Saturday’s bus schedule instead of Sunday’s because it’s so easy to do that and we soon find out there is no Sunday bus service in Saunton.
This Is looking back to Braunton. Path leads along this estuary. I think it’s an estuary.
Blackberry bushes are everywhere!
We’re right next to military training grounds.
Lunch break. Sandwiches. Forgot to pack dessert.
Ha! We see this sign as we close the gate after walking across the field.
It’s here that we realize that no bus will be coming. Luckily there’s a golf course right next to the path and we bum a ride to Braunton, which we know for sure has Sunday buses.

Saturday, 9/22 Evening

Our main goal on Sunday every time we come to England is it to make it to a Sunday Roast Dinner. Usually we miss it. Today though we are lucky: we find a good place in Braunton and end the walk on a full-belly note. Total miles today: 11.5.
Roast beef, potato, assorted fresh veggies, gravy, and Yorkshire pudding. Yum.
Waiting in the rain for the bus back to Barnstaple.
The Vicarage at last! We are both exhausted.
This waits for us every afternoon. That’s fresh cream on top.
Washed our clothes though not very thoroughly.
Choose breakfast and go to bed!
  • 2019 Trip Blog
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