We are sitting on the top level of a double-decker bus, taking the Torpoint Ferry from Plymouth across the Tamar River. Once on the other side, we'll wait five minutes for a bus to Portwrinkle, walk back to Rame Head from the other direction, then take the Cawsand Ferry back to Plymouth.
The path goes up from Portwrinkle to a golf course. According to a sign, walkers have right of way, which is somewhat comforting.
Our goal is Rame Head—that farthest bump out there on the right.
The South West Coast Path cuts right through Tregantle Fort, which was built in 1860 as a military defense to protect Plymouth’s naval base from France. (The Brits and the French have been at war on and off for centuries.)
Today the fort is used for military rifle training. When the fort is being used for firing practice, walkers have to detour around. And how would walkers know, besides stopping to listen carefully for gunshots? Turns out there is no ear-craning involved; if there's a red flag hoisted where the coast path cuts through, you can't enter the grounds. Today, no flag. We enter.
On the other side, we see a pretty sad-looking sorry-for-itself excuse of a flag. Is it just a red T-shirt? A kitchen towel?
Lots of cheerful little chalets perched on the cliff.
We finish at the coast guard lookout station on Rame Head. Wild horses roam casually across the field.
Walking down the hill to Rame and then on to Cawsand for a swim and the ferry.