Zennor to Pendeen Watch
7.2 miles
We've come to Penzance for two days to finish up a few gaps. Today we walk Zennor to Pendeen Watch because tomorrow (Sunday) there is no bus service here. We know a big rain is coming and we know it's rated "strenuous" in the books, so we expect some difficulties.
We won't look so pleased with ourselves after just a few minutes on the path in the rain and wind and mud.
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The rain is sharp and stabbing. The wind is fierce. The path is slippery.
Lots of old mines in this area, with signs warning you of open shafts.
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Bob is ever the optimist. I am wet, cold, slow.
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At first, the cows leave us alone. Then one gets aggressive and I hop the wall. Bob joins me.
I can't find a way over that doesn't involve a huge pile of wet cow crap.
Eventually, I just yell at the cows—something like EEYAA! EEYAA!— which I think is what the cowherds yell. I am not a happy camper.
Eventually, I just yell at the cows—something like EEYAA! EEYAA!— which I think is what the cowherds yell. I am not a happy camper.
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Finally, we see the promised land: it's the tiny white lighthouse just over there on the right! We are going to make it; we're not going to die in the dark on the coast path among the cows.
But then we discover there's a huge walk down and back up. I'm pretty sure this is called a combe and it's not what we were hoping to find.
But then we discover there's a huge walk down and back up. I'm pretty sure this is called a combe and it's not what we were hoping to find.
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The path goes down forever. Now we're a bit worried that it's getting dark, and that we'll miss the last bus.
We go back up on the other side but when the trail starts heading back down and around, we decide we're finished.
It's raining too hard to get photos but picture this: not knowing exactly where we'll come out, we climb a wall and cross a huge cow pasture, hop-running between cows and animal-sized cow patties; climb a wall into a second field; then a third and fourth.
The last one has a bull and I'm terrified and run just like you're NOT supposed to do. Bob is behind me and I wish him luck. He's smarter with animals than I am.
Finally we find a road but not a sign of life anywhere. Eventually we flag down a car and get a looong lift to the bus stop, where we've missed the last bus by five minutes.
A kind man takes pity and offers us a ride to Penzance and we arrive at our AirBnB sopping wet from head to toe, undress in the shed, and try hard not to drip water through the house and up to our room.
The coast path has beaten us.
It's raining too hard to get photos but picture this: not knowing exactly where we'll come out, we climb a wall and cross a huge cow pasture, hop-running between cows and animal-sized cow patties; climb a wall into a second field; then a third and fourth.
The last one has a bull and I'm terrified and run just like you're NOT supposed to do. Bob is behind me and I wish him luck. He's smarter with animals than I am.
Finally we find a road but not a sign of life anywhere. Eventually we flag down a car and get a looong lift to the bus stop, where we've missed the last bus by five minutes.
A kind man takes pity and offers us a ride to Penzance and we arrive at our AirBnB sopping wet from head to toe, undress in the shed, and try hard not to drip water through the house and up to our room.
The coast path has beaten us.
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Sunday morning it's a brand new day. We take a suitcase of clothes to the laundromat. We are happy campers again.