It rains all night and all day, sometimes quite fiercely. Hoods on most of the time, phones tucked safely away, very few photos. We take a bus to Porthcurno to check out the Minack Theater, then walk the SWCP to Treen, unsuccessfully dodging puddles, getting soaked through to the skin, and missing the turnoff to Treen not once but twice, both times having to backtrack. Eventually we find the path, then Treen, then the 15th century pub Logan Rock, where we try and fail to dry off and get warm. Every part of us and our gear is soaked. Taxi home to hot showers, warm beds, and clothes steaming on the radiators.
Logan Rock Inn
The Logan Rock Inn is a 16th century village pub that looks pretty much like it did hundreds of years ago. Cozy ambience. Ancient tables and chairs and benches covered in warm faded red velvet. We get a half pint of Rattlers (me), a pot of tea (Betsy), and two bowls of fantastically delicious bone warming soup. A favorite pub in a favorite hamlet!
Treen is a hamlet in far west Cornwall, not far from Porthcurno Beach. (A hamlet is smaller than a village and distinctly without a church. There is almost always a pub though!) Treen sits about half a mile inland from Treryn Dinas, an Iron Age cliff castle. The first records of the name is Tredyn (1304) and Trethyn (1314), which means farm + fort. The hamlet consists of rugged homes and buildings that can easily face down the squalls that sweep savagely across the cliff tops. Everywhere and everything is made of granite. Below is a description of the village by Francis Kilvert, who was an English clergyman whose diaries reflected rural life in the 1870s.
... and we came to a strange bare wild village where everything was made of granite – cottages, walls, roofs, pigs "crows" (sties), sheds, outbuildings, nothing but granite, enormous slabs of granite set up on end and roofed with other slabs."